If you want to make your own Maker Girl action figure, you’ve come to the right place. I’ve tried to document as best I can, and have split some instructions off as “advanced” so there’s more than one way to do it.

Note that you need to be pretty good at sewing and 3D printing stuff.

Zip file with sewing patterns, 3D print files, and vinyl cutter files: (7MB)

These design files are available for your personal use. Please do not upload onto other sites. You can link back to this page instead.


  1. Acquire doll. Patterns are made for an 11″ doll. Recommendations given in Materials section.
  2. Sew jumpsuit from blue spandex fabric. Cut cape out of red fabric.
  3. Use a Silhouette vinyl cutter to make the pieces for the M logo. You could also draw/paint this onto the jumpsuit or figure out your own method.
  4. 3D print the boots, arm braces, and belt in red PLA. (Advanced: use red Flex PLA) 3D print the wrench and drill in yellow or gold PLA.
  5. Advanced (Optional): Use a hot glue gun to glue flat disk neodymium magnets to the bottom of the boots and into the insets on the belt. Use a drill with 1/8″ bit to drill holes for spherical magnets on the wrench, drill, and the hand of your doll. Use hot glue gun to mount spherical magnets.
  6. Advanced (Optional): 3D print the head. Paint. Replace the head of the existing doll with your custom made head.


Doll Body

I used a Liv doll body to make the original Maker Girl. These are no longer in production, but you can find them on Ebay. They come with really big heads, so you will need to remove that and either make your own head or use a head from another toy.

Divergent DollThe easiest way is to buy a Mattel doll that has joints. The blonde haired doll in the photo uses the Divergent Barbie. (Only $12 right now on Amazon)

Other options:

Barbie Style Grace

Disney Descendants (All of this line has jointed bodies)

Hunger Games Katniss

Or best thing is to use a doll you already have, or spiffy up an old doll. Reusing is a good thing.


For the jumpsuit, use a good two-way stretch spandex that has at least 50% stretch. Choose something that is slightly thicker, it will be easier to sew than the flimsier spandex. I got this at Mood Fabrics, so I don’t have a link.

For the cape, I found this great metallic red spandex that cuts easily. The main goal is to find something that doesn’t fray at the edges. (Only $5 with shipping included)

Sewing Supplies

  • Sewing machine
  • Ball point needle (essential for sewing stretchy fabric)
  • Olfa rotary cutter (I prefer using this…you could make do with scissors)
  • Olfa cutting mat
  • scissors
  • matching blue thread
  • pen or fabric marker

3D Printing

I use an Ultimaker 2 printer. The files should work on most desktop machines.

PLA filament is easy to get. However, the accessories work much better printed in Flex PLA. Especially the boots. There are different sources of Flex PLA, but the kind that is easiest to use is the MatterHackers brand. It’s stiffer than other kinds, so it sticks to the print bed easily, and it works on bowden-feed machines.


If you have Flex PLA already but not in red color, you can paint it with acrylic paint. The glossy kind seems to stick a bit better. Nylon filament is also flexible enough. If you know how to print with nylon filament, I’ll leave that to you.


For magnets, I get them from Ebay

1/4″ Disk Magnets

1/8″ Sphere Magnets

Plus drill and hot glue gun for mounting the magnets.

And if you have a Silhouette vinyl cutter, I’m guessing you already know where to get vinyl.

Moving on…

Make Jumpsuit and Cape

Make the Logo

I used heat press vinyl in the original instead of adhesive vinyl because the finish comes out more professional. But the logo is small enough for adhesive vinyl to be okay.

3D Print the Accessories

Boots and arm bracers, PLA (use files marked pla), Print Settings:

  • Wall thickness: .4mm
  • Layer height: .2mm
  • Speed: 30mm/s
  • Bottom fill: 4mm
  • Top fill: 0
  • Infill: 0
  • No Supports

Tip: If you have trouble fitting the PLA printed accessories onto the doll, dip the parts in hot water to soften them, then quickly fit onto doll.

Boots and arm bracers, Flex PLA (use files marked spiralize), Print Settings:

You must print one part at a time for spiralize to work.

  • Turn on Spiralize setting.
  • Wall thickness: .8mm
  • Layer height: .15mm
  • Speed: 20mm/s
  • Bottom fill: 4mm
  • Top fill: 0
  • Infill: 0
  • No Supports

Belt, drill, and wrench:

Use your normal print settings for PLA


Use a drill with a 1/8″ bit to make the holes in the accessories and doll hand for the spherical magnets. Use a hot glue gun to glue the magnets in. (Use very little glue, or the magnets won’t fit.)

Note: If you are making this for a child to play with, Do Not put magnets in. It’s a health hazard.

Optional: Make the Head

You need significant drawing and painting skills for this. I included the 3D model, which I managed to print on my Ultimaker 2 with hollow settings.

  • Wall thickness: 1.2mm
  • Layer height: .15mm
  • Speed: 25mm/s
  • Infill: 0
  • Bottom fill: 0

This really needs a separate dedicated post about making heads. In short, it’s a lot of sanding, then primer, acrylic paint, matte sealer, gloss varnish, matte sealer. If you order a SLS print from Shapeways, it’s significantly easier. I will update once I get some new prints in.